Pacific Standard March-April 2013 Cover

‘Fair Trade’ Chocolate Perceived as Healthier

It’s that time of year when weight-conscious people, determined to shed the pounds they put on during the holidays, pay closer attention to food labels. While the savvy are skeptical of overreaching health claims, newly published research suggests an entirely different assertion can lull us into caloric complacency. It finds socially conscious consumers are more likely to perceive a chocolate bar as being low in calories if it is labeled “fair trade.” “Ethical food claims can bias consumers to see poor-nutrition foods in a healthier light,” reports a research team led by ... Read More

Chiapas’ Coffee Growers: Accidental Environmentalists

Chiapas Shade-Grown Coffee Practices Accidentally Protects Environment

Every steaming cup of coffee could tell a story, and the shade-grown coffee from southern Mexico’s Chiapas state tells tales of a disproportionate role in sustaining local villages, hillsides, and wildlife. It’s a story with several lumps of conflict and uncertainty stirred in. The volatility of the global coffee market makes it a difficult business, and Chiapas’ small farmers face the precarious equilibrium common to all small farms and businesses. But they face an additional set of unique challenges, including the shaky political truce between the government and Zapatista rebels ... Read More

What’s In a Label?

You've probably seen a "fair trade coffee" sign in the window of your favorite gourmet coffee shop, but what exactly does fair trade mean — beyond a $4 cup of coffee, that is? Although it doesn't have a universally accepted definition, fair trade is generally understood to be a movement that promotes sustainability in developing countries and tries to pay "fair" prices to the local producers exporting from them — most notably farmers raising coffee, bananas and tea. The reasoning behind this is that small-scale farmers in developing nations cannot compete with industrial farmers, ... Read More

Coffee Won’t Keep Your Conscience Up at Night

In recent years, buying a pound of coffee has come to require a moral and gastronomical scrupulousness not normally associated with food staples. Walk into the supermarket today, and you'll be confronted by bags of organic, fair-trade, shade-grown, bird-friendly, single-source coffees, each proudly emblazoned with a wordy label and an assortment of certifications. It can be a disorienting experience. "Sometimes I look at my own coffee, and I scratch my head and I say, 'How could anybody figure this out?'" says Donald Schoenholt, the proprietor of New York-based Gillies Coffee, a specialty ... Read More

How to B Good

On a blustery October morning, I meet Jay Coen Gilbert at the Gryphon, a small café in Wayne, Pa., a town about 20 miles northwest of Philadelphia. He arrives in his traditional workday garb — shorts, Chuck Taylors and a T-shirt — and we sit at a table near the back. Over the whir of a relentless coffee grinder, Gilbert tells a story about his father, Sidney Philip Gilbert, an architect looking to land a contract to redesign some offices for a nondescript engineering firm in a suburban office park in Somewhereville, New Jersey. It was a tale of the 1980s, at the height of the Ronald ... Read More