Pacific Standard March-April 2013 Cover

Artists of Restoration at Playa Viva

August 11, 2010 • By •
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Location: Watching a tropical storm from inside a palapa in Playa Viva, just south of Ixtapa, in the state of Guerrero. I marvel at how the woven palm fronds that make up the roof keeps such vast quantities of rainwater out. Conditions: Cool and windy, with occasional rain squalls. The ocean is a turbulent mess, the landscape swaying with the wind, even the mountains seem to move as the clouds roll around them. By afternoon, the sun burst into view, the wind died down and everything relaxed. Discussion: I'm not much of a bird-watcher, but the colorful ducks at Yarumi lagoon made me ... Read More

Making Sense of Collapse

August 3, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
The abandoned resort of El Tecuan.

Location: In the northern part of the state of Guerrero, camped next to a mangrove. Two river mouths form a broad delta in this area. In a palapa near the beach, women prepare tamales over a wood-burning oven. Conditions: The lovely mangroves unfortunately spawn lots of mosquitoes, which force a decision: whether to use chemical repellent DEET, hide under long-sleeve clothes in the sweaty heat or be bitten and risk the possible dengue fever advertised in warning posters around local towns? Perhaps I should seek higher ground. Discussion: Perceptive readers have probably wondered about ... Read More

The Barricades of Michoacán’s Bandito Alley

July 28, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
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Location: At Rio Nexpa, in the southern end of Michoacán, where muddy water from recent rainstorms dirties the turbulent ocean. Under coconut trees, palm thatch huts line the perimeter of the riverbank. Conditions: The northerly breeze covers everything in salt spray. The air is pleasantly cool after the sporadic downpours. Discussion: As I drove south, the landscape kept changing in surprising ways. Around Puerto Vallarta, the dense jungle and verdant coastal mountains rising out of Banderas Bay is like a perfect capsule of the tropics. It inspired Hollywood producers to shoot movies ... Read More

The Big Friendly Giants of Escuinapa

July 23, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
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In mid-May of this year, an entire town moved to the beach for five days of partying. School was canceled and work was deferred for the thousands attending the annual Fiesta de Mar de las Cabras. They came mostly from Escuinapa, a town located one hour south of Mazatlán and 20 minutes inland from Playa Cabras. According to organizers, it is the 105th year of the event, which had roots as an indigenous "pagan" festival to celebrate the sun god Yequi. Kids, parents and grannies listen to live music on the isolated beach. There is nothing around for miles except coconut trees and two ... Read More

The Drug Destruction of Mexico, Part II

July 15, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment

When I grew up in Mazatlán, I'd hear people say, it's better to live five years rich than a lifetime poor," I was told by Daniel, who is studying law at a university in Mexico City. "Sometimes it would even be written on walls." In a different context this phrase might be promoting righteous work for personal progress. But since we were talking about the drug cartels in Mexico, I knew the meaning was shady — it is a justification for what decent men resort to while dancing to the seductive song of the drug trade. As the drug war escalates, more civilians are caught in the crossfire. ... Read More

The Drug Destruction of Mexico, Part I

July 9, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
A farm near Mazatlán. Mexico is wrestling with how to deal with the rising political influence of drug cartels. (Kristian Beadle)

Kristian Beadle underscores the effect drug cartels are having on Mexico’s politics, people and ultimately, its environment. Location: Near the Zona Dorada in Mazatlán, the hub of tourist pleasure. Conditions: The breeze and cool ocean water wash off the hot, muggy air of the city. Someone asked me in California, “You’re writing about the environment in Mexico? I bet people are more worried about the drug war and staying alive.” I would come face to face with this issue once I arrived in the mainland. Like an absurd nightmare, the guy's face appeared everywhere you ... Read More

The Pearls of La Paz

July 6, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
Punta Coyote, another one of the great bays near La Paz. (Kristian Beadle)

In La Paz in Baja California, our Kiri blogger attends the Waterkeeper Alliance conference and learns about hopes for improving coastal areas. Location: Near the beach at Balandra, southeast of La Paz; a bay and wetland complex that was submitted for protected area status by La Paz residents. Conditions: Hot and dry winds are gusty at night and calm during the morning. The water is cool and pleasant for swimming. Isla Espiritu Santo glimmers in the horizon as sailboats go by. Discussion: La Paz was once rich in pearls. Expeditions financed by Hernán Cortés in the 1530s came back ... Read More

Sustainable or Sick: the Growth of Loreto

July 2, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
The mural on the waterfront colors the open air structure for the sewage-pumping system. (Kristian Beadle)

Location: Hotel San Carlos in Loreto, southern Baja, two blocks from the waterfront. Conditions: Outside, the sun is shining, but I'm lying in my room feeling nauseous, suffering through my first stomach bug this trip. Discussion: Imagine saying, "Honey, the water truck is coming!" Then your husband puts down the breakfast cereal and bolts out the door to catch the truck, waving money to indicate he is worth the driver's time. Pamela Bolles, a Loreto resident for 11 years, explained: "The truck used to come three times a week, now it's every 10 days, if we're lucky. We need to be on our ... Read More

Childhood Dreams in Playa El Coyote

June 30, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
Bahia Conception Locator Map

A stop along the way sparks childhood memories for the Voyage of Kiri. Location: Near the calm blue waters of Bahia Concepcion, an hour south of Mulege. Conditions: Under the canopy of a few highly prized trees, sheltered from the hot sun, with just the slightest breeze over the water. Discussion: I nudged Alyssum, saying, "You've got to see this." I had to interrupt my co-pilot's power nap to see the string of bays below us, shining in impossible colors. Each turn of the road winding along steep cliffs drew gasps. We finally chose our destination, Playa El Coyote. The dirt road ... Read More

Are We Making Bigger Hurricanes?

June 25, 2010 • By • Leave a Comment
Hurricane damaged home

In the south of Baja and mainland Mexico, summertime means tropical storms and hurricanes. In Mulegé, an unprecedented three floods occurred in four years, caused by rain-heavy hurricanes. People are claiming it is "global warming." But is it? After the 2005 record-breaking season of monsters like Katrina, Wilma, and Dennis, hurricanes became the poster child of climate change. An Inconvenient Truth's image of a hurricane spewing out of a smoke stack seems to say: we are fueling our own self-destruction. But I have to wonder, could my tailpipe emissions really create mega storms? If my ... Read More